2020

2019

Jean-Baptiste Adam – Le Riesling 2017 – Kaefferkopf, Alsace Grand Cru :

Le nez est fruité, minéral, bien mené et offre un grain fin. On y retrouve des notes de coing, de
prune jaune et plus légèrement de kumquat associées à de fines touches de pomme,
d’agrumes ainsi qu’à de très discrètes pointes de miel. La bouche est fruitée,
minérale, équilibrée et offre une bonne définition et de la précision. En bouche ce vin
exprime des notes de coing juteux/frais, de prune jaune et plus légèrement de
pomme écrasée associées à une fine touche de poire ainsi qu’à de très fines pointes
de quénette fraiche/juteuse. Bonne longueur. Un petit croquant sur la persistance.
Score / Note : 16.25+/20 - 93/100

The nose is fruity, mineral and offers a fine/well-built grain. It reveals notes of quince, yellow
plum and small notes of kumquat associated with fine touches of apple, citrus as well as very
discreet hints of honey. The palate is fruity, mineral, well-balanced and offers a good
definition as well as precision. On the palate this wine expresses notes of juicy/fresh quince,
yellow plum and small notes of crushed apple associated with a fine touch of pear as well as
very fine hints of fresh/juicy quenette. Good length. A small crunchiness on the persistence.

Jean-Baptiste Adam – Le Riesling 2017 – Wineck-Schlossberg, Alsace Grand Cru :

Le nez est fruité, racé et offre une fine puissance et une fine droiture. On y retrouve des
notes de mirabelle, de petits fruits jaunes et plus légèrement de brugnon compoté
associées à de fines touches d’agrumes, de zestes ainsi qu’à de très discrètes pointes
de pierre à fusil. La bouche est fruitée, juteuse, élégante, gourmande et offre une
bonne définition ainsi qu’une trame juteuse/finement acidulée. En bouche ce vin
exprime des notes de mirabelle juteuse, de poire juteuse/charnue et plus légèrement
de coing juteux associées à de fines touches de citron, de zestes et de quénette.
Bonne longueur et persistance. Score / Note : 16.75+/20 - 94/100

The nose is fruity, racy and offers a fine power and a fine straightness. It reveals notes of
Mirabelle plum, small yellow fruits and small notes of crushed brugnon associated with fine
touches of citrus, zests as well as very discreet hints of flint. The palate is fruity, juicy,
elegant, gourmand and offers a good definition as well as a juicy/slightly acidulous frame. On
the palate this wine expresses notes of juicy Mirabelle plum, juicy/fleshy pear and small
notes of juicy quince associated with fine touches of lemon, zests and quenette. Good length
and persistence.

2019

Alsace - The New Generation Speaks Out (Part One)

Tom Hyland Contributor

Opinions expressed by Forbes Contributors are their own.

Food & Drink

I write about wine (and sometimes food) from around the world.

There is always a challenge for the new generation of wine producers, no matter where they live. Namely, how do we proceed in our work? Do we continue to make wines in the style our fathers and grandfathers did? Or do we implement a few changes to show our approach?

This is certainly true in Alsace, that lovely corner of northeast France, where some of the world's greatest white wines are crafted. But the younger generation has other issues they must address to stay relevant in today's wine industry. Namely, how do they get more consumers and wine buyers to take a look at Alsatian wines, which are criminally under represented on wine lists and retail shelves in America? Also, how do we compete with other white (and red, to a lesser degree) wines from around the world and make our wines better known and more attractive to younger wine drinkers?

Recently, I spoke with four of the newest generation of wine producers from Alsace: Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Hugel, located in Riquewihr; Laure Adam of JB Adam in Ammerschwisr; Mélanie Pfister of Domaine Pfister in Dahlenheim, and Anne Trimbach of Trimbach in Ribeauville.

The interviews are extensive, so I am dividing this subject into two articles; in this part, I will share the thoughts of Hugel and Adam, while the replies from Pfister and Trimbach will appear in the next edition.

Laure Adam, JB Adam

Photo courtesy Stephanie Teuwen

Interview with Laure Adam

Tom Hyland: What is the biggest advantage Alsatian wines have in the world of wine? What is their strongest identity?

Laure Adam: An incredible diversity between grapes varieties and terroir for a small region. Our strength is Riesling, the king of grapes varieties in Alsace, able to flourish on our terroir to create unique wines.

Hyland: Tell me about your production. What is your leading wine in terms of quantity?

Adam: 20 hectares of vines cultivated in biodynamic + purchase of grapes. Crémant d’Alsace represents 20% of the production, then Riesling, Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer.

Hyland: Has there been much in the way of climate change over the past 10-15 years? If so, how? What must you do to combat the effects of climate change? Has climate change been helpful in any way?

Adam: Over the past 10 years we observe that the beginning of the harvest is earlier every year (more than one month compared to 10 years ago). The fact that we cultivate our vines in biodynamic help us a lot and then we adapt our vinification every year. The positive effect of this is for the Pinot Noir, the phenolic maturity and extraction is better than before (for example the 2018 Pinot Noir is very concentrated and very qualitative).

Hyland: How have your wines changed for the better over the past decade? Have you received comments from importers or consumers as to the style of your wines or Alsatian wines in general?

Adam: Our wines are much more concentrated, elegant and have a salinity that our clients enjoy.

Hyland: Alsatian wines are not as well known by consumers as other wines of France (especially Burgundy and Bordeaux) or as well known as wines from California or some regions of Italy. Why is that? Is the subject of Alsatian wines too confusing to consumers (too many varieties)? Is it because consumers don't know these varieties? What must the producers of Alsace do to change consumer awareness and improve sales? What must they do to have sommeliers show more interest in Alsatian wines?

Adam: We are a small region with an incredible diversity of wines, it is a strength and a weakness at the same time. In our domaine, we tried to simplify the understanding, for example we have a sweetness scale on the back label. Also we have a consistent style of wines for the past 400 years especially for pinot blanc, sylvaner and riesling which are dry every year!

Tasting notes on JB Adam wines:

“Sec Si” 2018 - A blend of 70% Sylvaner, 30% Muscat. Appealing aromas of apricot, yellow peach and orange blossom. Medium-bodied with delicious ripe fruit, very good acidity and balance, this is quite tasty and works well on it own or with simple chicken or pork dishes. You don’t think about this, you merely drink it! Enjoy over the next 1-2 years. Very Good

L'Auxerrois "Vielles Vignes" 2016 - Auxerrois is a varietal planted throughout Alsace; it is typically used as a blending varietal. Deep yellow; aromas of dried pear, dried yellow flowers and a light brown herbs. Medium-bodied, this is quite dry, with good acidity and very good complexity. Not overly ripe or powerful, this is a nice wine to pair with quiche, paté or sautéed vegetables. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Very Good

Pinot Blanc “Les Natures” 2016 - Aromas of apple peel, quince and Bosc pear. Medium-bodied, this has excellent freshness, very good acidity and a dry finish with subtle spice notes. This is a delightful wine that offers much more character than most examples of Alsatian Pinot Blanc. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Excellent

Riesling “Les Natures” 2017 - Aromas of lemon peel, lilacs and orange blossom. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lovely varietal character, good acidity and persistence; excellent harmony. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Excellent

Riesling Grand Cru Kaefferkopf 2015 - Attractive aromas of yellow peach, apricot, kumquat and yellow poppy. Medium-full, this is beautifully ripe with excellent varietal purity. Impressive persistence, very good acidity and complexity. Precise and extremely clean - excellent winemaking. Delicious now – enjoy over the next 5-7 years, perhaps longer. Outstanding

2019

En collaboration avec le site winetourism.com, site dédié aux activités oenotouristiques à travers la France, le magazine suédois en ligne Vinjournalen.se a publié un article sur l'Alsace en tant que région oenotouristique dynamique à découvrir. Plusieurs conseils y sont donnés pour une visite idéale dans le vignoble, dont la recommandation de notre maison familiale !

Retrouvez l'article complet ci-dessous :

https://www.vinjournalen.se/okategoriserade/alsace-frankrikes-minsting/

Et également le lien de notre profil sur le site winetourism.com, avec les activités que nous proposons :

https://www.winetourism.com/winery/jean-baptiste-adam/

2019

The Ultimate Alternative to Champagne Is Versatile, Affordable, and Increasingly Available

words: SARA PEPITONE

If you live in France and like sparkling wine, you can stop reading here because you’re already drinking all the Crémant d’Alsace. Seventy-five percent of annual production, to be precise, never leaves the country.

If you’re anyone else, this is a story about the ultimate alternative to Champagne. Read, find, consume, you’re welcome.

The first thing you need to know about Crémant d’Alsace is that the Champagne comparison is not merely about the existence of bubbles. Crémant d’Alsace is made the same way as Champagne. There are eight designated crémant appellations in France.

Like Champagne, Alsatian Crémants are made in the traditional, or classic, method. Secondary fermentation occurs inside the bottle in which its sold, plus aging on the lees, riddling, disgorging. In other words, if you like the creamy yeastiness that characterizes quality Champagne, crémants are for you.

Crémants are made like Champagne in method but not necessarily materials, meaning ingredients, meaning grapes. Crémant d’Alsace can be single-varietal or blends, and can be made from Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Crémant d’Alsace Rosé is 100 percent Pinot Noir.

These wines also require manual harvesting and gentle pressing. “Pressurage doux” extracts the best juice, Thierry Fritsch of the Alsace Wine Counsel, says. (And you thought the traditional method was laborious.)

Another ingredient that differentiates Crémant d’Alsace from Champagne is terroir. Alsace and Champagne are in the same region, the Grand Est. It was created in 2016 when Alsace, Champagne-Ardenne, and Lorraine merged as part of a country-wide initiative.

Fritsch notes Colmar, one of the region’s major cities, is among the driest in France. And, he says, the northern climate is particularly suitable for the production of the primary grape varieties used in making Crémant: Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc.

“To the west of the region is the protective border formed by the Vosges Mountains and to the east is the Rhine River, Germany, and the Black Forest,” Jennifer Wagoner, sommelier and wine director at Sepia, an American restaurant in Chicago, says. The region “has been shaped by war and a blending of cultures, but also by a mosaic of soil types that produce expressive whites and structured, elegant Pinot Noirs, many of which are used in the production of Crémant.”

Wagoner, who has been tasting, buying, and selling wine for 13 years, traveled to Alsace last June and fell in love with the local wines all over again. “Alsace itself is a gorgeous region with plenty of sunshine and producers who are making some stellar sparkling,” she says. “It’s a small region, 75 miles long and 3 miles wide, where you have the perfect blend of ripeness along with the mineral freshness that you want in bubbles.”

She adds: “The care that is put into the farming and the passion and history of the wineries is special. It comes through in the wines. They are very conscious of the environment and many producers embrace organic and/or biodynamics. The vineyards are truly alive.”

These factors are important to Philippe Sauriat too. He’s head sommelier and wine director at Gabriel Kreuther, a French-American-Alsatian restaurant in New York City with a casual lounge (tarte flambee!), and formal dining room.

“Crémant d’Alsace is often an interesting blend of grapes you wouldn’t find in other sparkling wines. This makes the flavor more special,” Sauriat says. “I also enjoy the direction of the farming practices of the region which allows for more experimentation from its producers.”

To this native Burgundian, the Alsatian soil variety (he called it a “mosaic,” too, for the record) is reflected in the varying styles of sparkling emerging from the region. “The style of this region is not singular due to so many producers with varying individual practices and styles,” Sauriat says. “A lot of exciting, unusual blends are much more common than you would think!”

Currently there are three Crémants d’Alsace on Gabriel Kreuther’s 1,865-SKU bottle list. Plus, says Sauriat, “We always have a Crémant d’Alsace by the glass that we change every season because we feel it’s important to offer different producers and styles of Crémant.”

At Sepia, where there are 475 wines to choose from, there are currently three Crémants d’Alsace by the bottle and one by the glass. “We currently have an Alsace feature that showcases the region’s wines and they have been very well received by our guests,” says Wagoner. She also manages the 30-bottle list at sister restaurant Proxi where Crémant d’Alsace is offered by the glass and is the featured fizz for Saturday and Sunday brunch.

“Many wine lists may have a Crémant or two by the bottle and possibly by the glass, but not necessarily from Alsace. I find a unique value in this region and a connection with the people and the land,” says Wagoner, adding, “These wines are highly versatile and are becoming more available in both restaurants and in retail.”

Wagoner likes Crémant d’Alsace in a simple white wine glass (more U-shaped than red) and Sauriat takes it a step further by specifying a Riesling glass as the ideal. Though only about a quarter of bottles produced leave France, both sommeliers note the growing availability of Crémants d’Alsace in the U.S., and recommend checking in with your local wine shop to source and order.

“Crémant d’Alsace is delicious and something that you can afford to enjoy on a regular basis,” says Wagoner. “It’s also nice to know that you are supporting a group of producers that are genuinely good people from a part of the world that is, in my humble opinion, quite magical.”